Fitting problem for lower bust
Generally this type of problem occurs for sari blouse. Here are some tips to rectify this problem to some extent. Check bra size and shape and ask for suggestions and wear correct one. For the sari blouse tell your tailor to take correct measurement of apex point means highest point of the bust. Then darts will be stitched in correct position to give the perfect shape of bust line.

In the above figure 0-A is the length of the bust line that is 1/4th of bust girth measurement + 1" and A-B is the point of the dart length that is 3.5". The entire dart should stitch 1" away from the centre point and B-C =1". Accordingly place other dart points and stitch to get perfect shape.

Armhole fitting problem
Armhole shape should be correctly drawn to get correct shape. Firstly armhole length should not be more than 7.5" because girth of the bust covers the rest. On front part depth of the armhole should be 1" on body part and 1.25" for sleeve.

0-A is the armhole length that is 1/4th of the bust – 1" to 1.5" for top and 2" for sari blouse and not more than 7.5". C is the centre point of armhole line. C-D is 1" inside and draws the armhole shape with the help of French curve. To get more tips and step by step drafting, cutting and stitching method buy "Stitching Made Easy" book and CD online.

How to stitch neck strip?
Place front and back neck part by matching shoulder point on a piece of paper or fabric and draw the neck shape. Now mark 1.5" width outside as per shape and cut the strip.

Place neck strip on right side of front and back part by matching centre of front and back neck shape. If strip is in two pieces first join together and then place by matching joining with centre of neck shape. Fix with pin and mark 1/4 seam allowance around the neck shape.

Sew the neck strip as shown in picture. To view more methods of sewing buy "Stitching Made Easy" Book and CD online.

After sewing press the seam and turn the strip on wrong side. Fold the other side edges of the strip and fix with pin. Hem the strip with hand needle to finish the neck shape.

How to stitch sleeves?
To draw sleeves drafts follow the book "Stitching Made Easy". Place the paper pattern on fabric and cut sleeves.

Fold the edges of the sleeves bottom and sew as shown in picture. One more parallel stitch on the edges wills strength the fold.

Cut a small notch on the centre of the sleeve on armhole shape. Match the notch of the sleeve and shoulder seam of the body and fix with pin. Sew from centre towards back and come back with double stitch and continue for the right side and turn back to end the seam at the shoulder point. Press the seam and turn. Repeat same method for the other sleeve. To view more buy Sewing Book and CD online.

How to stitch zip for the back opening?
Place two strip of fabric to attach zip on both the pieces of back part. By keeping little extra at both the ends, fold the strip vertically and fix with pin. Sew with 1/4" width of stitch. Press the seam.

Open the zip and place one part of it on strip, little away from joining stitch and fix pins. See picture and follow the same. Sew on the edges of the zip. Press the seam and turn on wrong side.

Press the seam and turn the zip strip on wrong side and stitch on right side to fix with the back part.

Repeat the same method to sew the other part of zip. At the end of waist sew to close the end so that holder of zip will not come out.

Puff sleeves for frock
Adjust gathers on the bottom of the sleeves at 1" above from edges by increasing the stitch width and pull the thread from one end. Cut the satin ribbon by measuring sleeve bottom + 2" and place on the gathering stitch and sew by adjusting gathers according to ribbon.

Place front armhole of the sleeve on the front armhole of front part at the end and fix with pin. Same way fix for the back armhole part. Adjust extra fabric of sleeve as gathers on shoulder seam and stitch sleeves with body part. There are three types of puff sleeves. First one is puff on shoulder arm only; second one is puff on arm circumference and third one with both side puffs. To see the drafting and cutting method of puff sleeve follow the book "Stitching Made Easy". To view drafting, cutting on paper and fabric and stitching step by step with colored photos buy online CD on sewing product.

More Tips

Take correct measurement of body. Draw pattern on paper and check the measurement before cutting. Place the paper pattern on fabric and fix with pins, so while marking or cutting it will not move.

Pre wash the fabric properly to avoid shrinkage. Iron fabric properly and then fix paper pattern on it. Mark cross on the wrong side of fabric to join correct sides of the garment. Before start to stitch check the pieces of fabric pattern and marking of darts and side seam. Cut the lining and main fabric both 1/4" more on shoulder and side seam.

To get more valuable tips and step by step cutting and sewing method buy "Stitching Made Easy" book and CD online.

Mehandi Designing

Mehandi designing is a great art and women are very fond of doing and learning this art. Pencil sketching develops this art to draw intricate figures on hand and body with cones. Here are some tips for mehandi applying. Color of the mehandi powder should be olive green. To check the color power of the henna or mehandi powders make a tight consistency paste and leave it for ten minutes with little water on top. Water will get colored within few minutes. After applying the design on palms and hands apply pure lemon juice on it, once it dries. Don't add sugar or water with lemon juice. Add pinch of sugar while making the paste for one cone. Don't keep design more than 3 hours and try not to wash with soap. It takes 24 hours to get dark color. Don't use same mixing of paste for hairs.

For more details of mehandi designing, video of making mehandi cone and paste buy CD products online.