Knowledge of Sewing Machine
To work with sewing machine one should know the system operation and maintained of it. Today there are varieties of sewing machines are available in market. In previous days simple machines were there with selected functions, but now a days technology is so developed so there are multi-functional machines are available with electric or motor operated. Now just by changing knob different stitches can be done. To know about the function of sewing machine, knowledge of different parts is necessary. First we will discuss about the common parts of a sewing machine, which are present in both, simple and multi-functional sewing machine. Though there are some special parts in the multi functional machine for different functions.
Ordinary Sewing machine
| Pressure Regulating Screw |
This screw should be tightened while working with finer fabric like organdie and chiffon and to be loosened for the thick fabric like denim. |
| Take Up Lever |
It controls the flow and movement of the spool thread. |
| Spoon Thread Tension Dial |
It can be turned to the right to left or right to left to increase or decrease the tension of the spool thread. |
| Needle Clamp |
It holds the needle in position. |
| Pressure Foot |
It holds the fabric in place and under it feed dog feeds the fabric during the sewing process. |
| Needle Plate |
Needle plate has guidelines to help to keep seams straight. |
| Slide Plate |
The slide plate slides out side to load or unload bobbin case. Some time it can be flips up. |
| Stitch Regulator Lever |
It regulates the required stitch length. At the top position stitch length is larger and reverse for small stitches. Large stitches are for thick fabric and small stitches for sheer fabrics. |
| Bobbin winder Spindle |
It holds the bobbin for winding the thread. |
| Spool Pin |
Spool pins are for thread spool to rotate freely during sewing. |
| Balance Wheel |
To start the machine this balance wheel rotates. First this rotation is done by hand and then simultaneously it continues with handle or by foot paddle. To stop machine, balance wheel should be stopped by hand. |
| Bobbin Winder Thread Guide |
It regulates thread tension for bobbin winding. |
 | There are some special knobs for different functions in this machine.
| Stich Width Selector |
This regulator is to select the width of plain stitch and zigzag stitches. |
| Needle Position Selector |
This selector places needle position right, left or at the centre as per requirement. |
| Drop Feed Control |
This is used for free-motion work. It drops feed below needle plate, so you control the feeding of the fabric. |
At present there are sewing machines available with advance technology. No error threading process, sure fit bobbin and stay bright led light are some features available in the machine. Quilting, embroidery, button holing, button stitching, zip attachment, zigzag stitching can be done in a very easy manner. Necessary Equipment fpr Sewing
To stitch any garment some necessary equipment are needed to obtain good result. Some tools are required for drafting pattern on paper such as measuring tape, brown paper sheet, pencil, scale, French curve and paper scissor. To place the layout pattern on fabric, fabric should be properly ironed. Pins, marking chalk, fabric cutting scissor are the tools required to cut the fabric pattern. To sew and finish the garment, thread, hand and machine needle, pucker, fasteners and sewing machine is necessary. Knowledge of Fabrics
Fabrics are essential as other necessities of life. These are used in every moment of our life. Simultaneously, these serve various purposes, like comfort, design, style, warmth and of course cover.
There are varieties of fabrics available with different characteristics. The characteristics of fabric depend upon the type of fiber, thickness, weaves and finishes applied. There are some fabrics natural or synthetics. Natural fabrics are those which are created from the fibers of animal’s coats, the cocoons of silkworms, and plants seeds, leaves and stems. It is breathable and never causes rashes apart from being soft and durable. Natural fabric is the best choice for everyone. It does not change color from Ultra Violet light and there is no warming until the material looses its tensile strength. Common natural fabrics are cotton, silk, wool, leather, hemp, coir, jute and linen. Body Measurement
To sew a garment for a particular person, body measurement is required. Body measurement should be taken correctly for the correct fitting of a dress. Some measurements are to be taken lengthwise and some are on girth, or widthwise. Which part of the body measurement should be taken depends upon the kind of a garment. Measuring tape is the only tool which helps to take the measurement of a body in inches or in centimeters, because these measurements are written on the both sides of a tape. Drafting
Drafting is a method to draw the pattern of a garment with a measurement, on a paper. Drafting involves many steps. The most important step is taking the correct measurement. Before drafting any pattern of a garment basic bodice drafting is necessary. Bodice paper draft helps to adopt various patterns. To draft a pattern of any garment on paper, a sharp pointed and dark pencil, good eraser, a French curve for armholes and necklines, measuring tape and paper sheets are required. Layout Plan
Placing of paper pattern on the fabric is called layout plan. Some parts of the pattern should place on length wise, some on width and some on bias. Check the pattern diagram according to the size, version of design and width of the fabric.
Free Projects of Sewing Pillow Cover
Length and width depends upon the size of the pillow.
Part A
0-1 and 2-3 = length + ½” 0-2 and 1-3 = width + ½”
Part B
4-5 and 6-7 = length + double of corner fold. For example if corner fold is 1 ½” then take 3”+ ½”
4-6 and 5-7 = width + double of corner fold + ½”
4-8, 4-9, 5-10, 5-11, 6-12, 6-13, 7-14, 7-15 = each 1”. Join 8-9, 10-11, 12-13 and 14-15. Cut these corners as per shape.
Part C
0-1 and 2-3 = 5” length 0-2 and 1-3 = width as per Part A
Sewing Instructions
Fold one side edges of the Part A and Part C and stitch. Match the corners of Part B on 8-9, 10-11, 12-13 and 14-15 and join. Press the seam and fold the corners. Place the Part C on Part B in such a way that stitched edge will be inside and the other side will be stitched with either 0-2 or 1-3. On top place Part A in such a way that stitched edge will be on Part C side. Fold the edges of corners on Part B and stitch together with Part A and Part C on 0-1-3-2.
For frilled edges cut both the parts as per size of A. For frills cut the fabric strips four times of length and width. Width of the frill is as per choice. First stitch the frills on one part of the pillow cover and then place the part C and other part of A and stitch to finish. Cushion Cover
Length and width depends upon the size of the cushion.
Part A
and 2-3 = length of the cushion + ½”. 0-2 and 1-3 = width of the cushion + ½”
Part B
and 2-3 = ½ of length + 3 to 4”
Part A Part B
Cut one piece of Part A and two pieces of Part B. If inner lining is there, cut according to Part A and B. Sewing Instructions
Fold one side edges of both the pieces of Part B and stitch. Join the lining with Part A and B with a stitch on edges. Place one piece of Part B on Part A on wrong side in such a way that unstitched edges will be on 0-2, and stitch. Place another piece in a same way of Part B on the other side of Part A on 1-3 and stitch. Pouch
 Sides of the pouch may round or square as per choice. Take a piece of fabric as per the total girth of the sides as length and width as per choice. Cut sponge material and lining same as main fabric. Place sponge in between the main fabric and lining and tack with hand needle, or quilting can be done with vertical, horizontal or square stitching lines. Do same for two sides. Join two sides with the quilted main fabric. Stitch zip on two edges at the centre opening.
Bag
Take two pieces of fabric as per the height or length, and width of the bag as A & B. One piece C is required same width as bag and length as per requirement for the base of the bag. Two side parts D & E required as per the same height of parts A & B and width of the part C. Same size (D & E) of two more pieces required for the side pockets. For the front pocket (one or two) take same size of fabric as per the base of the bag (C). 4” width of fabric strips required for the base of the pockets. Long strips are required for the handle of the bag. Same pieces of sponge and lining fabric should cut. Buckram fabric can be taken to insert inside of the handle for strength.
Sewing Instruction
Before started to stitch count the parts of fabric, sponge, lining materials and strips of fabric required for the base of pockets and handle. Zip should be taken as per requirement.
Place parts A & B, C, D & E and pockets of fabric on the pieces of same size of lining and insert sponge in between the two and tack with hand needle. Stitch all along together, as square or diamond shape stitching as quilting. Trim the sides as per shape. Same quilting method use to finish the stripes of the fabric for the base of the pockets. Join fabric strips for pockets on two sides and bottom of the pockets. Place pockets on sides and front and back side and join with zip. Stitch one side of zip with pocket and other bag part. Join Side parts D & E with parts A & B. Join all parts along with C. For stiffness on base place same size of card board piece inside the bag. Place buckram piece for the handle. Place sponge strip on the either side of the buckram strip and cover it with fabric strip and finish by quilting method. Handle can be attached only on the top part of the bag or can be attached all around the bag for strong and good strength. Stitch the ends of the handle strip with X shape for strength.
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